Sinatra. Frank Lloyd Wright. Picasso. The Rock of Gibraltar. Cary Grant. Ginos Restaurant?

Sinatra. Frank Lloyd Wright. Picasso. The Rock of Gibraltar. Cary Grant. Ginos Restaurant?

All time classics. Things you have counted on for decades, and had hoped will be there forever. I'm certain this pertains to the first five, now the last is closing its doors forever as this missive is being posted.

Ginos Restaurant, a New York City stalwart Italian restaurant since 1945 is closing its doors forever tonight, Saturday 29, 2010, after the dinner service and I am crestfallen. I remember my first visit to this long-time institution in the 1970's, that today has unfortunately fallen on hard times as their rent has recently soared past $40,000 per month. Then and now- the bar was 4-deep in white-haired- but impeccably coiffed older gents and ladies downing their "part of the NYC restaurant waiting game" preliminary cocktails. The Dry Rob Roys, Sidecars and Martinis flowed like water. Bruno seemed to know what everybody's favorite was and had it in front of them before the obligatory air-kisses were dispensed, and they were ensconced onto their bar stools. Once we got to our seats and the food began to arrive, I saw why this relatively nondescript dining room proved so intriguing- endearing even, as I later felt. More on this later.

Italian comfort food. Home-made pastas and sauces. Perfectly sautéed meats and vegetables from chef Michele Miele's carefully-crafted repertoire. Apparently simple ingredients, yet providing awesomely complex flavors that gently pelted the taste buds like spring rain. Flavors were full and rich, yet none was over-dominant. Colors were clean and clear and appealed to the eye with a balance equal to their flavors and smells. Ingredients were all at their freshest, giving up their essences gladly to the pot or pan under the hand of a maestro. And the quirky Zebra-themed decor never failed to insure discussion. Just who the heck were firing arrows at the zebras on the custom-designed Scalamandré wallpaper…and why? Beyond that, there were no architectural fireworks or gimmickry, only white linen-topped tables and some seasonal flowers on wall sconce baskets.

Please allow me to declare- at the outset of this hopefully ongoing mission to bring enlightened and experienced commentary to this overcrowded genre, that there will always be more opinions about restaurants and restaurant food than all of the basil leaves and San Marzano tomatoes in the world, and thusly I acknowledge that individual tastes and levels of culinary enjoyment can only hope to overlap in this hectic world with its constantly changing fickleness and fads. This is a complicated way to state that there will always be those who despise what you love, and vice versa. And every kitchen (and service staff) has its off nights. However, over time, this place has proven itself as one of the classic New York City all-time most delicious restaurants, and my last meal there on Friday was no exception.

To be continued...