I was joined by one dining companion- as my choice of times kept others away. As this was the penultimate dinner service, I chose to go early- 3:30PM. As this was Memorial Day weekend, I thought that most New Yorkers would already be at their East Hampton estates or airborne already in their helicopters. We both had the same items- the very two that were the first things I had decades ago on my first visit. The absolutely heavenly Spedini a la Romana, and the legendary Paglia e FIeno al Segreto. Superlatives are mine and not written as such on the menu. The Spedini is a luscious creation made from slices of the freshest mozzarella, placed between two thin slices of bread, dredged in egg wash and flour, and sautéed in a luxuriant bath of olive oil and butter, with bits of anchovy and capers added to finish the sauce, in which the butter has just begin to take on a bit of color. The edges attain a delicate crispness, as the cheese will run out and cook more than the creamy center, which remains slightly cooler and softer as the heat penetrates less. For a blog that purports to be about food, one would reasonably expect the writer to be able to fully describe such flavors, but words simply fail to suffice to sum up the magnitude of the flavors that result. Luscious is a good beginning. Imagine a savory Italian french toast, with the magic of melted mozzarella within, and with the buttery/salty/savory goodness of the deglazed sauté pan sauce drizzled over the top, and decorated with slivers of Italian parsley. I only wish the place was lit better for the sake of the photography, but decorum would not permit me to use a flash so as not to disturb other diners.
The second course was to my mind the most simply perfect pasta course ever devised- Paglia e Fieno al Segreto. Literally "Straw and Hay" noodles- egg and spinach- made at Gino with a narrower version of fettuccine actually, in a perfect, creamy flavorful tomato sauce. Again the utter simplicity of the creamy tomato sauce when ladled over the fresh pasta pairing, along with a hint of freshly-grated Italian cheeses, literally explodes upon the tongue, with a mouth-feel so wonderful and unique that I have never had anything similarly approach such perfection. No one flavor dominates over the tomato foundation, but occasional flashes of shallot tease the palate. This dish must be eaten slowly, as it is deceptively filling, and at its best when savored as a vintage wine despairs at being gulped. With larger table sizes one can (gulp- could) order one paglia e fino as a side-dish to be eaten along with one of the equally adept veal or chicken dishes, but this being my last hurrah at this wonderful restaurant, I chose to go out with my two favorites. No more spaghetti with meat sauce, veal shank, or any of the dozens of old favorites.
Yes, time almost stood still at Gino since it opened in 1945, much like how Cary Grant still looks stunning today in his beautifully tailored suits from another era- yet which still remain in fashion today, proving that quality NEVER goes out of style. Were it not for my conversation with Chef Michele in the kitchen last night as I was wishing him buona fortuna- all the best luck for the future- I would be even more heartbroken. He plans on opening another restaurant- with a different moniker, of course- but with his brilliant recipes intact- in a few months, enabling a new generation of New Yorkers to once again have the opportunity to enjoy culinary masterpieces, plain and simple. I for one can't wait. Bravo Maestro Michele, and to you too, Signore Gino Circielo, the namesake founder and owner, gone almost 10 years now, I thank you both for your efforts and toil in creating a singular paean to simple and classic Italian specialties where the menu is the real star not the fashion or table settings.
